A couple of weeks left till London Fashion Week. We’re absolutely thrilled to announce upcoming jewellery designer Pearl NG will be collaborating with Ethologie during London Fashion Week next month. Showcasing her collection of modern classic and vintage inspired jewellery.
What attracts you to London?
London has always been a second home to me while living around the world — I ended up building a life here over the years. As my brand grew and I decided to create a collection for Pearly, I brought the collection to New York, Hong Kong and London, and very quickly I realized that the spiritual home has and always will be London.
There is something very bold yet restrained, with a hint of experimentation and devil-may-care in my work, while staying very wearable, which is also very present in London fashion. I grew up with a deep love for Vivienne Westwood, and I found myself building upon the ideas of tradition, history, elegance and refinement, in this dichotomy of modernity, purity in concept, fearless attitude, and vivaciousness.
I try to embody that sense of grace in between in the lines while being expressive. In some odd ways I find this freedom in London, and London “gets me” as a designer, which is like having a friend you’re in sync with — you learn from each other and it helps you blossom as a person.
Where has been your favourite place to live?
I have been a big city dweller all my life. I studied at RISD (Rhode Island School of Design) in Providence, Rhode Island, in the US, and then ended up working there for few years after school.
I fell in love completely with Rhode Island and New England as a whole. It’s an idyllic place with beaches, beautiful scenery, Americana Kennedy-esque charm, with a bygone era industrial edge, all of which I find very endearing. I loved the serene, small community feel, mixed with the presence of two leading universities, which offered some of the most brilliant and innovative minds internationally. It’s unusual for a small city to be such a forward thinking place. It was a privilege I got to live there when I was young.
Where do you draw inspiration from the most?
I am largely influenced by my journey of discovery in life and what surrounds me. I often get ideas from historical visual references: Victorian is a big part of my lexicon, Art Deco, Medieval to 1950s Bauhaus, 30s and 40s are all ingrained in me somewhere.
When it comes down to designing I think of dressing the woman (and man too as I am starting to develop a men’s line): how she lives her life, what she wears, feels, touches, how she expresses herself and puts together, how she’d like to perceive herself to the world. It’s a sum of many parts really that makes a Pearly piece, inspiration comes in all sorts of forms.
Which do you prefer, being a designer or a stylist?
By training and experience, I have been a designer literally all my life and it’s in my blood. My great grand father was an Industrial Designer. Styling is a natural extension of what I do, and I enjoy it very much that it’s such a different perspective of using your eye instead and being truly creative. The two goes hand in hand I believe.
As designers, there isn’t a finite line between the many different hats we wear — we have to create the whole picture and play different roles in order to execute our vision. But yes, I am a designer at my core and I always will be, no matter what I do, and I absolutely love it.
What is the one thing you can’t live without?
Love, I can’t live without love. Okay, maybe really good sushi.
What do you feel is the most exciting part about the upcoming collaboration?
I have always loved Jasper’s work for Ethologie, and I just absolutely love working together with a great friend on design projects. I think there is a sensibility, glamor and put-togetherness that overlap in our work — it is amazing to think that we are designing with a similar woman in mind, and now really coming together to create a whole look. Usually when I work, I focus on the specific object I’m creating, and the complete look is usually an abstract concept. Working on designing a collection with a specific look in mind, a special theme and color scheme, it opens up a different way of looking at the pieces I’m developing in how they compliment but also stand alone. Considering how the piece will be worn, what Jasper may be coming up with, the quantity of pieces needed also for the show, the variety and variations working in conjunction with his pieces – all of which change my normal process of designing jewellery.
For the first time I’m kind of putting a fine jewellery collection together as a fashion collection, and I love breaking boundaries and challenging status quo on how things are done. What I really push forth in my design this time is making the pieces bolder and even more extravagant with a fashion runway in mind; on the flip side since the pieces are larger in scale, I wanted to emphasize refinement, I brought in even more intricate in hand carving and engraved techniques, more elaborate forms, and using high end precious gemstone such as blue sapphires and spinel to maintain the fine jewellery aspect. I wanted to create pieces that really pop and brighten the apparel designs, but also elevate our collection on a higher level – in the drama of the design, the technique and sophistication of our craftsmanship, and really distinguishing them as fine jewellery and not fashion accessories. We haven’t done pieces this challenging before and in an entirety as a full collection in one launch, so for me it’s incredibly exciting to have so many pieces made at once. There’s nothing like a collaboration of this level. You work at bringing your best to the table, and pushing your own work forward. I’m completely ecstatic to see the final outcome this London Fashion Week.
What do you enjoy most about working with others?
When collaborations work well, it’s pure magic. We expand our horizons and limits as individuals, and you’re forced to examine what you do and what you role is in the team. I love working with others who simultaneously share and challenge my vision; that allows me to reevaluate my own work in a different light and grow. Of course everyone have different strengths and weaknesses, and there’s no greater way to learn from one another than working together. It also brings friendships to a higher level of understanding. Unlike fine artists, design life is one that relies on teamwork, and cohesive professional relationships truly bring out the best in everyone when it works well. The outcome is an even better product than we thought you could do alone, and I’m all about reaching a higher goal and becoming better. Plus it’s great fun to work with other designer friends and live through the process together, we cheer each other on, and the champagne taste all that better afterwards.
What do you have planned for the future?
No matter which way the wind blows, I know amazing jewellery is here to stay, so the main thing I am working on is continuing to build Pearly, seeing what unfolds, and welcoming the changes. Currently I am working on becoming a GIA graduate gemologist, which is giving me more independence in working with important diamond and gemstone pieces, as receive higher end commissions for Pearly Bespoke. It also benefits the Collection a lot in just gaining a new way to communicate with my vendors.
For the Pearly Collection we have been working on expanding to a larger audience, both in PR and marketing, and plans on teaming up with a few different prestigious and luxury retailer partners that are doing interesting things. We are bringing our work to different cities and keep our roots international. Our collection is still made in very limited editions by hand, so we want the brand represented at the right places. Right now we’re seeing the biggest growth since we entered the marketplace. The collaboration with Ethologie is going to take us on a proper London Fashion Week runway for the first time, exposing us to a new audience as well. It’s exciting to see the brand maturing, and maintaining as both a custom jeweller and a limited edition collection simultaneously. I’m thrilled to see the brand growing each day, with every new milestone we make, I’m thrilled to see where we’ll be.
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More.. https://ethologielondon.wordpress.com/2015/01/16/london-fashion-week-aw15-and-pearly-by-pearl/
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