Although this next topic doesn’t necessarily focus on nutrition per se, in a way it is “health” related and certainly unique to La Paz, Bolivia. The Mercado de las Brujas or Witches’ Market is located on a cobblestone street in the old quarter of La Paz where those who still practice ancient Aymara traditions can come to visit a yatiri, or witch doctor, and purchase their wares. This oddity has unsurprisingly become a tourist attraction, and the shops make a significant portion of their revenue from curious foreigners stopping in for a peek. While the country’s population is overwhelmingly Catholic, remnants of the Aymara spiritual belief system have been passed on to modern society. Many Bolivians continue to pay homage to the goddess Pachamama, or “Earth Mother,” and will honor her with despachos (burnt offerings) and prayers for health, happiness, and prosperity.
The market as a whole was smaller than I expected, but each shop overflowed with all manner of peculiar items ranging from mystical trinkets and alluring potions to downright macabre sacrificial animals and curse candles. Occult items one may purchase in the market also include: medicinal plants, folk remedies, native herbs and seeds, amulets, totems, talismans, crystals and gemstones, soapstone figurines, sugar offerings representing their desired outcomes, aphrodisiac formulas, perfumes and incenses, beauty powders, naked ceramic couples for sex life and fertility, owl feathers, and dried animals. Desiccated insects, turtles, starfish, frogs, and armadillos were among them, and I later learned that apparently frogs are believed to bring money, especially with a cigarette placed in its mouth, and armadillos prevent thieves from entering a home. By far the most prevalent sacrificial carcass, however, were the countless llama fetuses on display.
While decidedly not vegetarian in practice, llama offerings are a fascinating part of Bolivian culture from an anthropological standpoint. Llama fetuses that are generally the result of natural miscarriages are collected by the witch doctors from the high Andean desert. Their primary purpose is to serve as a cha’lla (offering) in traditional ceremonies where they are buried under the foundation of most Bolivian homes. Doing so is believed to encourage Pachamama to keep construction workers safe and bring luck and prosperity into the new home or business being built. The Witches’ Market is a major supplier of the fetuses, though only poorer Bolivians opt to use them, as the wealthy are expected to sacrifice a living llama if they can afford to do it. The sight of the fetuses in various stages of development from tiny and shriveled to large and furry creatures was somewhat disturbing, and given the nature of this blog I’ve abstained from including pictures of this part of the market.
The market also serves as a place to acquire spells or spiritual advice from the witches, medicine women, folk doctors, astrologers, fortune-tellers, and sorcerers that circulate the area. Sacred white and black magic is performed to treat ailments, exact revenge, attract wealth, grant success, punish oppressors, and bring about health, love, intelligence, happiness, longevity or protection by calling upon the Aymara spirit world. Copious amounts of pre-mixed potions are available in small bottles of colorful liquid or takeaway boxes for the spell-caster on the go, and black candles morbidly shaped into skulls, coffins, and penises are prescribed for dark magic curses. Another prominent feature is ceramic statues of Ekeko, the chubby Andean god of good fortune and plenty. Bolivians give these statues to each other and cover them with miniature representations of the things they hope to acquire, such as dollar bills, diplomas, or minibuses, and then place a lit cigarette in his mouth for good luck.
More.. http://wholesomeharvest.wordpress.com/2014/12/27/people-the-witches-market-of-la-paz/
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